July 17

Didn't sleep well. Got up early. Left the hotel around 7 and got to the border area about 8. Left the border area after 12 pm. Far busier than last time - 'lines' where there were a dozen people within arms reach - crazy, but no 'official' delays (unlike last time). It seems that is just how long it takes. Met a nice American family

Made my way to Jerusalem by 2 or so and found a room at the Austrian Hospice. Walked all over - found the Palm hostel for old times sake, sat by the Damascus gate and worried about Israel. Went to the wall and worried more. Far more soldiers than I remembered from last time (they were everywhere) and many more Jews in the Muslim quarter than before (though that might have been because it was the Sabbath). Made a shopkeeper mad that I didn't buy anything. Coming back to the hotel I heard a bunch of crazy settlers marching and singing through the Muslim quarter. Called Zainab.